Час информации: Книги о моде. В день рождения Кристиана Диора

Добрый день, уважаемые читатели блога библиотеки имени В.Г. Белинского! Сегодня 21 января, в день рождения Кристиана Диора, весь модный мир вспоминает великого кутюрье и его творения, которые по праву можно назвать произведениями искусства. Мы приглашаем вас на небольшую библиопрогулку по биографии великого Мастера, во время которой продемонстрируем книги о моде , которые есть в нашей библиотеке и которыми мы с удовольствием с вами поделимся.

Имя основателя всемирно известного дома моды Кристиана Диора знакомо почти всем: оно ассоциируется с блеском софитов на подиумах, яркими и стильными платьями, ароматом моды и стиля. Кристиан Диор родился 21 января 1905 года в небольшом нормандском городке Гранвиле, бывшем рыбацком порту на берегу Ла-Манша на северо-западе Франции. В 1911 году семья маленького Кристиана переехала в Париж. Родители у него были обеспеченными людьми, поэтому, несмотря на то, что Кристиан был вторым из пятерых детей, в детстве он ни в чём не нуждался. Начальное образование он получил дома, и первоначально, по настоянию родителей, готовился к дипломатической карьере. Кристиан поступил в Свободную школу политических наук, но на этом его политическая деятельность и закончилась. Вместо занятий по международному праву и географии, будущий кутюрье проводил время в музеях, учился музыкальной композиции и истории живописи.

История этого модного бизнеса Кристиана Диора берёт начало в послевоенной Франции, в 1947 году. Талантливый дизайнер одежды получил от миллионера Марселля Буссака, нажившего капитал на торговле самолётными тканями, предложение основать собственный дом моды. Кристиан принял его помощь, но настоял на том, чтобы на вывеске нового предприятия значилось его собственное имя: он хотел начать дело «с чистого листа» и, как показало будущее, не прогадал. Энтузиазм и страсть основателей сделали это предприятие не просто очередным ателье для обеспеченных клиентов, а настоящим законодателем моды и желанным местом работы для профессионалов в области дизайна одежды.

Первая же коллекция Диор, получившая броское название Новый Взгляд (New Look), произвела сенсационный эффект. Интуиция кутюрье, который творчески переработал подход к дизайну платья, на десятилетие замерший на довоенной отметке, родила новый, молодёжный, оптимистичный стиль, в следующий год ставший трендом по обе стороны Антлантики.

В 1949 году, Диор открывает бутик в Нью-Йорке, окончательно закрепляя своё присутствие на богатейшем рынке мира.

Параллельно с выпуском одежды, предприятие освоило производство парфюмерии, смелые ароматы которой стали идеальным дополнением к новому стилю одежды, на который сделала ставку компания.

 Решительная политика руководства за первое же десятилетие превратила парижский дом моды в торговую империю. К сожалению, основатель Диор скоропостижно скончался от сердечного приступа в 1957 году, после чего управление империей перешло в руки молодого Ив-Сен Лорана.

 Череда разнообразных событий после этого рубежа принесла предприятию много достижений и неудач, но ничто не могло подорвать авторитет этой торговой марки, навсегда, как, по крайней мере, кажется в настоящий момент, закрепившейся на Олимпе модного бизнеса.

Визит Модного дома «Кристиан Диор» в Москву в 1959 году

Если бы на Красной площади в тот день приземлилась летающая тарелка, думается, жители Москвы смотрели бы на нее точно так же. 10 июня 1959 года рейсом французских авиалиний в Москву прилетел Christian Dior. 12 манекенщиц модного дома, который к тому времени возглавлял «наследник» месье Диора Ив Сен-Лоран, спустились по трапу самолета, и шоу началось

Это был не просто визит дружбы или показатель хрущевской оттепели. Это была вовсе не коммерческая поездка, так как поставлять роскошную одежду в СССР модный дом не планировал. Это было шоу, призванное показать существование двух миров, столкнуть их лбами, представить не просто мир роскоши, доступной французским женщинам. А женщину, красивую, ухоженную, элегантную, из плоти и крови, которая легкой походкой прогуливается по улицам и магазинам. И приковывает к себе восхищенные взгляды.

Моделям запрещалось появляться на улицах без соответствующей одежды и макияжа. Их гардероб был тщательно продуман и отобран. Им были выданы инструкции: что говорить, как отвечать, всем улыбаться. Их «маршрут по Москве» был проложен заранее, и, естественно, красной нитью проходил через места массового скопления

Потом феи прошлись до Красной площади, на ходу кокетничая с моряками и умилительно улыбаясь деткам. А после этого отправились в ГУМ. И здесь началось самое интересное. ГУМ — сердце советской легкой промышленности. Место, связанное с советской модой. До этого дня сюда непринужденно приходили советские женщины в ситцевых платьях, кто-то в платочках, кто-то в сандалях на носок. И покупали очередной халатик, пальто или косыночку. При этом попутно поглядывая на манекены, где уже красовались платья модного приталенного силуэта, но купить их было невозможно. Поэтому когда в ГУМе появились диоровские модели, его посетители испытали культурный шок. То, что увидели советские граждане, в корне не соответствовало тому, как, по их представлению, должна выглядеть женщина. Да, в кино. Да, на сцене театра. Пожалуйста! Но вот так, на расстоянии вытянутой руки — это невозможно. Шоу модного дома Christian Dior состоялось!

Собрав эту онлайн-мозаику вы увидите ,какую книгу можно взять в нашей библиотеке:

Спасибо за внимание!

М. Мишуринская

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